Phoenix II Motors
are
available in front and rear models. Front motors fit 100mm dropouts and
rear motors fit 135mm dropouts, the standard for mountain bikes,
cruisers, recumbents, adult trikes, tadpoles, and just about everything
else except road/racing bikes. All Phoenix II motors are disc brake
compatible. Just move your existing disc rotor from your old hub to
your motor. If you have rim brakes, no sweat. We use rims compatible
with standard hand brakes.
Front versus Rear Drive
Each has advantages and
disadvantages. To start, Phoenix II front motors are 10lbs and rear
motors are 16.25lbs. You probably guessed that rear Phoenix II motors
also have more power than front motors.....so it's give and take, a
very familiar idea to those in the LEV industry. You may have also
guess that you'll have less range with rear motors if you ride like
us...full throttle all the time! Face it, if you are using more power,
it's going to run out faster given the same size "fuel tank". However,
that doesn't mean you "have" to use more power all the time either, so
you can have the same range with a rear motor as a front if you keep to
that power level. Non-performance related differences may include that
usually the rider is more aware of what the front wheel is doing. If it
starts to spin, the rider has an additional plane of control. That is,
you can turn the front wheel to maintain balance and correct for the
spinout. The front wheel has less weight on it though, so it will spin
more easily. Steep hills on non-paved surfaces can be a problem for
this reason. Rear wheel drive has the advantage of better traction, but
if you apply too much throttle on a turn and the wheel starts to spin,
you will probably hit the ground as the bike goes out from under you
(you can't turn the rear wheel as you can a front to correct for the
slip). If sticking to the standard one-size-fits all battery mounting
arrangement, rear drive puts the entire weight of the system on the
rear of the bike rather than battery weight in back, motor weight in
front. On the other hand, some of the best conversions we've ridden had
rear wheel drive and the customer mounted the batteries in the
triangular part of the frame toward the front. Weight distribution can
be important, especially for 72V systems due to battery weight. Rear
dropouts on bikes are heavier than front, and can take more torque. If
you use a rear drive, you can still have front suspension. If you use
front wheel drive, make sure you are not using carbon fiber, aluminum,
or anything weaker than steel. Believe it or not, carbon fiber
is NOT
good for a Phoenix II motor because carbon fiber is made with strands
that are strategically placed based on the direction of stresses that
will be presented to it. Since bike frames are stressed in about every
direction, it makes carbon fiber a fairly poor material to use for bike
frames, especially the area of your dropouts....hence being horrible
for a hub motor. They tend to hold up under regular biking
circumstances, and when handled with care, but a Phoenix II is sure to
destroy it.
FrontRear
Cruiser versus Brute
Cruiser and Brute look
physically identical. The difference is in the windings inside the
motor. Cruiser is wound for higher speed, which means less torque than
Brute. If you have a wheel size smaller than 26 inches, you will
probably want to choose the Cruiser. If your wheel is 26 inches or
700c, it depends on your terrain and the type of traffic you will ride
in. If you have a lot of stop-and-go and/or your speed limits are 25
MPH or below, Brute would be a better choice. Since Brute is wound to
favor torque over speed (compared to Cruiser), it uses less energy to
produce acceleration, and since you won't be exceeding its top speed
anyway, the top speed of a Cruiser would be wasted. On the other hand,
if you're traveling mostly county roads or paths where you can pour on
some speed, THE Cruiser is better!
Throttle Types
Full TwistThumb
All our
throttles are compatible with all our controllers. While lighted
throttles are still available, the APM-Display eliminates the need of
LED indicators on the throttle. All Phoenix II kits include a
non-lighted throttle. The lighted throttles that show approximate range
remaining need to be the same voltage as your system to be accurate,
but while the light-gauge needs to match the system voltage, the
throttle part is voltage-independent, meaning you can use any throttle
on any system regardless of voltage. NOTE: Half-twist and full-twist
throttles have the same range of twisting motion, so don't be confused!
"Half-twist" simply describes the length of the throttle, not its range
of twisting motion.
Thumb Throttle
- Uses a thumb lever to apply throttle, and takes up the
least amount of space on your handlebars. If you have a twist-grip
shifter, you must choose a thumb throttle due to the limited space on
your handlebars.
Full-Twist Throttle -
Like a motorcycle throttle
Helpful Tips, Basic Facts
and Misc. Information:
This section is meant to
provide bits and pieces of information that
should help you to gain a more clear understanding of your options, and
which options to choose. While much of this information can be found in
various places on our website, we've grouped them all into one section
for easy reading and navigation.
Regular Bicycle Information:
We are not bicycle
experts, not even close. We have learned much over
the years, but the bicycle industry is constantly changing. Instead of
being mediocre in two totally different fields, we chose to be experts
in one... electric hub motor systems. We have found one site in
particular to be very informative when we've needed to research
anything in the bicycle industry: http://www.sheldonbrown.com. We
can't verify all the information is correct, but have found no reason
to question its accuracy. It's obvious its creators are very well
educated in the bicycle industry...so we recommend using it as a
reference for any bike questions you may have! You local bike shop is
another great source for this information.
Batteries:
Relatively speaking, increased voltage will increase
your speed while increased current (Amps) will increase your torque.
Do not confuse "Amps" and "Amp Hours", they are
completely different
unit of measurement. Amps are a measurement relating to power, also
known as current. The higher your amp rating, the higher your torque
and overall power. Amps can somewhat relate to the gas industry as in
how many cylinders your car engine has, which has much to do with the
amount of power it has. Amp Hours are a measurement relating to battery
capacity, or range. The higher your amp hour rating, the further you
can travel per charge. Amp Hours can relate to the gas industry as in
how large your gas tank is....which has much to do with how far you can
travel before refueling.
Sealed Lead Acid batteries are generally available in
6V and 12V, although 12V are more standard in the LEV industry.
A 36V system will have 3 12V batteries, a 48V system
will have 4 12V batteries, and a 72V system will have 6 12V batteries.
Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) batteries typically offer
250-350 recharge
cycles for electric vehicles. For the average rider, this is about 2
years. For commuters who recharge twice a day, this could be 6 months.
SLA batteries DO have a shelf life, meaning they drain
very slowly when
not in use. If left uncharged for a period of months, SLA batteries
will be permanently damaged. We recommend charging your batteries once
every 2 weeks when not in use.
Never exceed more than half the amp hour rating of your
battery pack
with the amount of amps you are charging with. For example, you would
never want to use more than a 6A charger for a 12AH battery pack.
Chargers:
All chargers we supply are "smart" chargers, meaning they can be left
plugged into the battery pack indefinitely without causing damage. A
good rule of thumb is "If the bike is not on the road, it's on the
charger".
Chargers do get HOT! Never charge near anything
flammable. We recommend
placing your charger on concrete, at least 6ft away from anything
flammable.
To determine charge time in hours, divide the amp hour
(AH) rating of
your battery pack by the amp (A) rating of your charger. Example, it
takes about 4 hours to charge a 12AH battery using a 3A charger
(12AH/3A = 4hrs).
To an extent, charge speed effects charge quality. The
slower you
charge your batteries, the better quality of charge your batteries will
receive. While you "can" charge a 12AH pack in 2hrs with a 6A charger,
you will notice less range than if you were to charge with a 2A
charger.
Motors:
Phoenix II motors include only the Cruiser and Brute.
The Racer has been discontinued. (@ 45MPH+ it was just too fast
! )
The smaller your wheel diameter, the more torque you
will have, but
lower top speed. The larger your wheel diameter, the less torque you
will have, but higher top speed. Wheel diameter is a huge factor in
determining which system is right for you. If you have a 20 inch wheel,
in most cases we will recommend a Cruiser. There aren't many vehicles
or applications that would require the torque of a Brute on a 20 inch
wheel.
A 1-8 speed freewheel can be used with rear Phoenix II
motors. Some
8-speed freewheels may require installing a flat washer between the
fork and motor to space the freewheel from the frame.
Front motors use a torque arm, rear motors do not.
Phoenix II motors are "based" on Crystalyte's HT and HS
motors, but
supply more power than the base models. We call our motors Phoenix II,
which can be identified as having glossy-black paint, and a lot more
power! All standard HT and HS motors are silver.
Phoenix II motors can be laced to 20in, 24in, 26in, and
700C (27in) rims.
Phoenix II motors are laced with 12g spokes which are
twice as thick as 13g (standard) mountain bike spokes.
Keeping spokes tight is critical. Loose spokes WILL
break eventually.
Phoenix II systems use sensorless technology, meaning
there are no
electronics inside the motor, thus eliminating any possible failure
points inside the motor. The controller now does ALL the work.
Still not sure which system you need?
No doubt about it, choosing the right system is crucial
to years of
enjoyment. We want to help you choose the right system the first time.
Give us a call or send an email to sales@electricrider.com. Some of the
things we'll be asking you:
1. What type of vehicle will you be converting?
2. What is the tire size of the wheel you plan to
install our motor?
NOTE: Actual rim diameter is different than the tire size. A 26 inch
rim is really 22 inches in diameter. Be sure to report the actual size
stamped on the sidewall of the tire!
3. What top speed would you like?
4. What type of terrain will you be riding on? Is it
mostly hills,
flats, or a combination of both? About how steep is your steepest grade?
5. How far do you need to travel per recharge?
6. How much weight will the Phoenix II need to carry or
pull? Include the weight of a trailer if applicable.
7. Do you plan to pedal with the system?
8. Do you need to lift the vehicle on a regular basis?
IE, will it need to go on a bike rack or in a pickup.
THE NITTY GRITTY
!! ( Prices )
Contact Us
tech/ customer
support
1-360-385-9910 Email:
wildnaturesolutions@gmail.com
(Open 7 days and
Evenings
too!)
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